New Zealand Climber Kim Logan Shares Life-Changing Memoir

Kim Logan, a renowned climber from New Zealand, is set to launch his memoir, Kim: A journey between worlds, on November 1, 2023, during the Queenstown Writers Festival. The book offers an introspective look into Logan’s life, detailing not only his many climbing adventures but also the profound personal struggles he endured.

Logan’s climbing career is marked by perilous encounters on some of the world’s most iconic peaks. He has lost over 30 friends in climbing accidents and has faced life-threatening challenges on peaks like Mt Everest and K2. In one harrowing experience on K2, he found himself at 8,000 meters, grappling with exhaustion and fear as he considered his next move. Above him, six climbers pushed for the summit, while ominous clouds hinted at an impending storm. Ultimately, Logan made the decision to descend, a choice that saved his life as the others tragically perished during their descent.

From Troubled Beginnings to Mountain Triumphs

Born into a tumultuous environment, Logan’s childhood was far from nurturing. His father, Major Rangi Logan, a celebrated war hero, and his mother, Verity Johnstone, a socialite, were often absent, leaving Logan and his brother Wilfred to fend for themselves. Describing his early life as one of survival, Logan recalls sneaking into the kitchen at night to steal food. He writes in his memoir, “Climbing is easier to talk about than my childhood. I’d happily bury it all,” emphasizing the weight of his past.

These early experiences shaped Logan’s resilience. He found solace in nature and the mountains, which became a refuge from his difficult upbringing. By the age of 16, he had left home, seeking comfort in the outdoors rather than in familial connections.

Logan’s first significant expedition came in 1984 when he joined a team on Mt Everest. The tragedy of losing a teammate to a fatal slip marked a pivotal moment in his life. “The mountains don’t care about reputations or who you are,” he reflects, acknowledging the unforgiving nature of climbing. This harsh reality has led Logan to mourn not only fellow climbers but also family members, including his brother Wilfred, whose death was shrouded in mystery.

A Journey of Reflection and Resilience

Logan’s memoir is a culmination of years of reflection, capturing both the joys and sorrows of his life. He has always been a writer at heart, documenting his thoughts and experiences since childhood. “A mountain that takes five years to climb – it’s a bloody hard mountain,” he states, referring to the challenges of writing his memoir.

Despite his tumultuous past, Logan has cultivated a life filled with adventure and purpose. He has worked as a mountain guide, a location scout for films, and is now a viticulturist in Central Otago. Throughout his varied career, he has embraced the philosophy that discomfort and hardship are temporary, a perspective rooted in his upbringing.

Logan, who turns 73 in November, continues to seek new adventures. His relationship with his wife, Glennys, provides him with additional stability and joy. Together, they share a love for the outdoors, and Logan expresses a desire to explore new peaks and valleys.

As he prepares for the release of his memoir, Logan aims to share his story not just for himself, but for his four children. He understands the importance of legacy and the fleeting nature of life, stating, “We’ll all be forgotten in time… So we make the most of it while we’re here, and then it’s someone else’s turn.”

Kim Logan’s memoir, Kim: A journey between worlds, promises to be an inspiring read for anyone interested in adventure, resilience, and the human spirit.