Specialty Coffee Thrives Amid Global Challenges in New Zealand

A unique coffee experience is brewing in Dunedin, New Zealand, where specialty coffee trader Jason Moore is redefining how consumers appreciate their daily cup. The coffee in question, originating from a farm near Planadas, Colombia, underwent a meticulous fermentation process that transformed its flavor profile before being lightly roasted and brewed to perfection. This attention to detail is emblematic of the third wave of coffee, which treats coffee with the same care and respect as fine wine.

Moore’s journey in coffee began after he left school at the age of 17. He fondly remembers growing up in Wellington during what he describes as the “glory days” of the café culture. “A coffee was $3, Fat Freddy’s Drop were playing in town, and there was a real buzz in the culture,” he said. This vibrant environment ignited his passion for coffee, leading him to recognize the vital role of farmers, many of whom toil in obscurity.

In 2015, Moore launched Vanguard Specialty Coffee Co, which operates a café on Princes Street and a roastery on Vogel Street. The roastery produces approximately 13 tonnes of roasted coffee annually, catering to a dedicated customer base that includes doctors and food enthusiasts. Moore emphasizes that specialty coffee should remain an accessible luxury. “To buy a bag, taste it, push yourself— I love that,” he stated.

A coffee is classified as “specialty” when it scores 80 or above on a scale set by the Specialty Coffee Association. Trained experts known as Q graders evaluate various characteristics, including flavor and acidity. Moore sources most of his beans from Cofinet, a Colombian export company run by fourth-generation coffee farmers. This model ensures that the coffee’s journey is transparent, without intermediaries.

Moore’s commitment to quality is unwavering. He refuses to buy anything graded below 84, believing that lower quality should not be a consideration driven by price. “Quality compromises are not worth it,” he remarked. For him, creating memorable coffee experiences is paramount. His customers, many of whom are knowledgeable about coffee, often engage in deep discussions about brewing methods and origins.

Despite the rising costs of living, which have prompted some to complain about prices for drinks like the $7.80 flat white, Moore advocates for filter coffee as a more affordable yet high-quality option. The production of filter coffee is less resource-intensive, allowing for a better price point while maintaining quality. “We just put in good coffee, grind it right, and it comes out delicious,” he explained.

Convincing New Zealanders to embrace filter coffee has proven challenging, especially in a nation known for its dairy production. Moore notes that many consumers remain loyal to their milk-based drinks, such as Nespresso, which provide a sense of comfort. “Most people still love their Nespresso,” he said, highlighting the ingrained preferences that complicate his mission.

The specialty coffee industry is not immune to broader economic pressures, including climate change and global market fluctuations. Recent events illustrate this reality; a Dubai roaster recently paid an astonishing $51,000 per kilo for premium Geisha coffee beans. In contrast, large chains like Wild Bean are ramping up their operations, refining systems to improve quality.

For Moore and other specialty coffee traders, the focus is shifting from profit to sustainability. “I feel like the days of small, independently owned cafés are numbered,” he stated, reflecting on the difficulties facing smaller establishments in a competitive market. As operational costs rise, many café owners struggle to maintain fair pricing while ensuring profitability.

The landscape of the coffee industry continues to evolve, with both challenges and opportunities on the horizon. For Moore, the mission remains clear: to create exceptional coffee experiences that resonate with consumers while supporting the farmers who make it possible. “At the end of the day, I’d rather create something worth remembering,” he concluded, illustrating his dedication to quality and community in the world of specialty coffee.